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Peperoncino
Festival 2005 in Calabria, Part 1 of
2
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Calabria -- that's the southern tip of the Italian
boot, and also in chile terms, that's one of Europe's hottest
spots. As every year since 1992, chileheads gather here early
September at the Peperoncino Festival in Diamante. Peperoncini is
Italian for hot chiles.
Our
comprehensive
Calabria coverage reports in detail about Calabria, its
chile peppers and the little town that hosts the fiery festival.
Yet
we discovered new "hot" stuff this year, so we thought you'd
appreciate a 2005 Update. Enjoy!
Inflatable
chile pepper on Diamante's Municipal Building.
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Since
the giant peperoncino on display in previous years started to
disintegrate, a new one was built, and of course the author had to
greet it with a big hug. |
A small town changing
As
in previous years, Renate and I arrived early to check out what's
new before the festival crowds flood the town.

Diamante
is one of those small towns in Southern Italy that realized it had
to get creative and proactive to assure a healthy future.
Remodeling the Lungomare, the promenade on
Diamante's fancy seaside, seems to be money well spent. With fancy
pavement and newly planted palm trees, the Lungomare's makeover
adds to the town's flair, in harmony with the historical
center. As opposed to those overdeveloped vacation spots further
up north, Diamante is still looking refreshingly
"non-touristy".
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Festival coming closer...
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Even
without the huge banner announcing the Peperoncino Festival, many offers
in town were a dead giveaway that the big pepper party was close. A pasticceria
(pastry shop) on the Lungomare had the cornetti above for sale, a
special version of the popular Italian pastry, kicked up with a vanilla
filling mixed with hot red pepper bits, and a real, fiery peperoncino on
top. My kind of breakfast ;-)
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The
local panificio (bakery) was also busy delivering spicy
stuff. The cornbread above had nice chunks of olives and hot
chiles, a nice variation of the corn bread as we know it from
visiting New Mexico. Baked with olive oil, it is more compact
than the breads of the Southwest, but very tasty. Next time we
bake corn bread at home, we'll add olives and chiles, too. |
Café Niní has been a popular gathering spot for locals and
visitors alike, and they were also well-prepared for the festival. Their
Tartufo Afrodisia - gelato dolcemente piccante is a classsic by
now, rich milk ice cream with chile jelly and chunks of hot pods. But
this year, Nini added a new "hot" ice cream creation, named Palla di Eros.
The "love arrow" is a big scoop of chocolate ice ceam kicked
up with a serious portion of hot chile.
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And
like in 2004, Nini wowed visitors with a monster chile ice cream
creation in his see-through freezer! |
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The
one from last year is pictured in in our German 2006
Chile
Pepper Calender. We gave a copy to cafe owner Antonio
Belcastro a.k.a. Nini (center, between Harald & Renate), and
he was thrilled enough to throw a round of coffee and ice cream.
Of course we picked Palla di Eros, and were thrilled by
the sensation of fire and ice. Every
town should have at least one cafe like Nini's, including such a
nice and creative owner. |

Another
indicator that we were back to Pepperland was this
stylish ceiling lamp that we discovered at a Diamante pizzeria.
Finally.... The Festival
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Finally,
the Wednesday night ribbon cutting ceremony - the 2005 Peperoncino
Festival was officially opened. Each night, thousands of
chile-loving visitors flowed along the Lungomare, and also through
the streets of Diamante. Meanwhile, the seaside promenade is
running out of vendor and exhibitor space, so more hot
& spicy booths could be found throughout Diamante, turning the
whole town into one giant party. |
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Chiles
& Beans - Two ancient Friends taking Center Stage

Every
year, the Peperoncino Festival in Diamante has a different culinary
theme. This time, it was the friendship of chile peppers and beans (fagioli in Italian), which has been lasting for more than 10,000 years
by now. Both belong to the oldest food ingredient known to man. Chile
peppers have been collected more than 9000 years ago, and cultivation
started very early as well. The same is true for beans, and after
discovery by Columbus, both plants spread all over the world by trade ships. Although considered
a typical Mexican or Southwestern specialty, traditional dishes
combining chiles and beans can be found around the world.
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The
festival honored this by cooking and offering international chile &
bean dishes from Tuscany, the Basilicata, Mexico, Peru and other places -
every day different specialties. By all means - quite some beans!
"Pasta e Fagioli":
A popular Italian way of using beans is their combination with pasta, and
the local Ristorante
Bersagio served a delish one-pot dish with pasta, chile and beans
in tomato sauce at their booth.
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One
of the initiators of the "Chiles
& Beans" theme is Massimo Biagi
(below to the right, next to Harald), a University of Pisa
professor and master chile breeder. Once more he managed to have
pods of more than 150 different chile varieties from around the
globe perfectly mature and colorful all at the same time and right
in time for the festival, offering them for sale to the
public. This year, he also had 80 different international
bean varieties on display!

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Of
course I asked Massimo how in the world he came up with the idea
of showcasing beans. "In June", he said, "the University
had to provide a public presentation in Pisa. At this time of the
year, not even in our mild climate we have mature peppers. On the
other hand, dried beans are available at any time of the year, and
since beans are ancient food just like peppers, even traditionally
used together, we started to collect and demonstrate their enormous
variety of pepper's old pals."
In
the 16th century, long before becoming a widespread ingredient,
beans were considered royal food, and noblemen exchanged them as
gifts at special occasions. Massimo showed off beans from around
the world, but Italy itself has plenty of different varieties to
offer, including some with trademarked area protection by the
European Union (not only selected wines are getting IGP (Indicazione geografica protetta)
- some other food items like peppers, cheese or beans as well.
One example are Fagioli di Sarconi (beans of Sarconi) --
they're grown in the sandy soil of the upper Val D'Agri in the
Basilicata, whose climate is mild and cool. The beans of Sarconi are the main
ingredient of soups or homemade pasta
as well as various bean dishes. These beans that are particularly
tasty and fast to cook were for sale in 1-pound bags at the
festival by Sarconi producers.
Interestingly,
the same area in the Basilicata is also home to a special kind of
mild peppers that enjoy IGP status as well. These peppers, named Peperoni di Senise,
will be the subject of a separate Tasty Travel article soon.
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Matching
the theme, fiery-foods manufacturer Magnifici del Mezzogiorno
introduced a new product, named "Confettura
Piccante di Fagioli", a sweet and spicy bean spread.
Framed by Harald and Renate on the picture above, that's Giuseppe,
sales manager at Magnifici del Mezzogiorno.
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Every
year, the festival hosts podium scientific discussions and
presentations on the theme's subject. This time, Professor Bruno Amantea
of the Università Magna Grecia di Catanzaro and collegues
discussed history, tradition and health benefits of beans.
Afterwards there was a sampling of bean specialties. Another
podium of experts discussed whether Calabria should also seek area
protction for their peppers. Probably not a bad idea, considering
the popularity of this Italian region's hot pods.
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Taking
a break at Cafe Nini, connecting with old and new pepper pals. From the
right, that's Mats from Sweden, Ricardo from Rome, and Marco from Recco
in Liguria (Northern Italy). And of course ye olde German pepperheads.
Before driving down to Calabria, we stopped by Marco's place. He and his
wife Valeria cooked a wonderful dinner for us, and Marco showed us his remarkable pepper garden. It's so much fun how chile peppers connect
people from different countries that otherwise would probably never meet.
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New
"Hot" Products
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Hard
to believe, but every year, we still discover new products that are
related to the hot pods -- food and non-food. 
What
do you give to the chilehead who got everything? How about some fancy
lighting. This chile chandelier was for sale at the festival,
tasteful illumination for every self-respecting chile lover's home.
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To
show off the luxurious lamp, the vendor set up a makeshift
living room in his booth. Renate made herself comfortable. "No
way we gonna buy that lamp," she insisted, though. Ooops.
Too bad. I had envisioned it illuminating our library, which
also holds my private little "chile pepper museum."
I
comforted myself by purchasing a box of chile-shaped incense ("absolute
novelty") for my collection. Don't smell any different from
other incense, but they look really hot.
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A
new chile item was also availably by the Italian chile professor
(see above).
Right in time for the festval, he got his little book from the
printer, titled "Coltivare Peperoncino"
(cultivating chile). On
about 60 pages with many illustrations, Massimo gives helpful
instructions how to grow your own. Peppers, that is. The
book's ISBN is 88-88948-21-X, and with 6 Euro (about $7.00), it
shouldn't be hard on hobby farmers' budgets. Equipped with an
Italian dictionary, it is helpful literature to learn or brush up
Italian language. And
with getting about 150 different chile varieties to produce ripe
pods for the festival every year, Massimo proves that he's an
expert on the subject. |

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The
Pecorinos to the right got a nice peperoncino rub. |
Cheeses!
Chiles everywhere! Calabria wouldn't be Europe's headquarter of
heat if not even cheeses would be chile-infused. Take this Pecorino
for example, kicked up with plenty of pepper pieces. This tasty
cheese made from sheep's milk is almost adddictive, and we took
home a whole loaf. Even
down here, many vendors are equipped to vaccum-seal cheese and
smoked meats for you, a great way to preserve it while you're
traveling. We loaded up our hotel room's mini bar refrigerator
and brought everything home perfectly fresh. (If you're
traveling from abroad, that's a different story of course - food
import restrictions may apply, especially when entering the U.S.) 
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That's All, Folks!
Just
kiddin'! There's more to come in Part
2 - keep reading!
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