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Calabria
Update: Peperoncino
Festival 2006 Part 1 of 2
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Welcome!
Calabria -- that's the
famous southern tip of the Italian
boot, and Europe's headquarters of heat. As every year since 1992, chileheads gather here
in early
September at the Peperoncino Festival in Diamante. Peperoncini is
Italian for hot chiles.
Our
comprehensive
Calabria coverage reports in detail about Calabria, its
chiles and the little town that hosts the pepper party. Once again
we discovered new "hot" stuff on our trip down south this year, so we
share our 2006 fiery finds with you. Enjoy!
The new, fresh looking Peperoncino Festival logo
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Although
the Festival takes place in the deep south, promotion for the
event started right after crossing the Alps in the north.
Every highway restaurant/gas station complex of the
nationwide Autogrill chain had set up a section with hot
& spicy food items, a peperoncino book, chile decoration,
posters and festival brochures.

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First
stop at our friend Marco's chile jungle
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That
allowed us to surprise our chile pepper friends Marco and Valeria with a
copy of the 2006 festival schedule. The couple lives on the Ligurian
coast, close to Genova. Marco has turned their balcony and front yard
into an unbelievable chile jungle. It is good to see there are folks
around that are even more pepper crazy than ourselves :-) Once
again our friends treated us to great food specialties of their region,
and of course there was a lot of pepper talk. Without our common love
for the hot pods, we would have never met these supernice people.
An Extra Terrestial Chile
Cocktail
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After
our two-day stop in Liguria we went on to the Calabria region. We
arrived in Diamante two days before the festival started - always a
good idea. It's about noon, and we're heading towards
Café Niní, the poular meeting place right on the Lungomare,
Diamante's impressive seaside promenade. The sun is shining, and
we're greeted by familiar faces -- the café's owner Nini, as well
as Massimo Biagi, the pepper professor from the University of Pisa.
The two are experimenting with this year's hot & spicy cocktail,
by now a tradition at
Café Niní. A
warm "welcome back", and the guys are delighted to have
one more beta tester for their capsicum concoction. Nini hands me a
Martini glass, the piece of candied habanero at the bottom is a hint
to expect some heat. Anyway, Massimo and I agree that the drink
should be a little fruitier and hotter as well. So the testing goes
on, and after three more rounds we got it almost right. Due to empty
stomachs, we feel the vodka content of the cocktail and decide to do
postpone the final testing to the evening hours.
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So
the testing goes on at night, and after a while, a group of people
is joining our table, including Italian entertainer Gianni
Pellegrino and an elderly gentleman who starts drawing something on
his sketch pad. I knew he looked somewhat familiar, and it turned out
to be Carlo Rambaldi -- THE Carlo Rambaldi. He is drawing a
rendition of the world's most popular extraterrestrial that he
created for Steven Spielberg's movie E.T. in the early 1980's (see here). E.T.,
King Kong Lives, Alien, Dune, ... they all carry the handwriting of
this award-winning special effects artist. And we're sitting here at
the same table, sipping hot & spicy martinis! In record time
Rambaldi draws a perfect E.T. and dedicates it to Nini. Nini returns
the favor and names the 2006 cocktail "E.T."
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The
cocktail by the way contains Vodka, Cedro schnapps, habanero syrap and a
couple of "secret ingredients". It is served with a frozen
appetizer which looked like two scoops of ice cream at first glance. All
the
more surprising is a somewhat salty taste. Nini explains: One is made
with N'Duja, the popular fiery spreadable Calabrian sausage, the other
one with rosamarini, tiny fish that is preserved with salt and lots of
peperoncini. Sort of unusual taste, but somehow it goes quite well with
the capsicum cocktail.
The Usual Suspects
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There's
more proof that Diamante is now appearing on the touristical radar
screen. Take the professional street vendors for example, all too
well known from popular Italian beaches, selling everything from
"Rolex" watches to "Ray Ban" shades (stiff
fines await tourists who buy pirated brand name products, by the
way). Well, especially for the Peperoncino Festival, tons of cheap
chile pepper accessories have been manufactured in the far east as
ammunition for foreign vendors that bug you everywhere here,
typically not knowing any more Italian than (prego, prego!). Just
can't escape them.
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Café Niní, is also the gathering place for members of
the chilehead community, and we met some old fiery friends
from Germany like Gabi, Elmar and Bodo. While strolling through
the festival booths, we later ran into even more fiery fellows
from our home country. If this goes on, it won't take long and
restaurants here will have German menus, just like in the better
known Italian places ;-)
Prego, prego!
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Peperoncino Fever in Diamante
Many
owners of local shops decorated their windows even fancier than in
previous years. One of the reasons was certainly the fact that the best
shopping window decoration got an award this year.
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In
one toy store, Barbie was riding a vintage Vespa scooter, equipped with
hot peppers of course. As the shop owner told us, he borrowed the doll
from his daughter..
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In
this window, flickering light bulbs add "fire" to a
chile bouquet. The guy in the shop even turned on the light for
our photo. Note the old Ford "T" fire truck
extinguishing the "flames". What an idea. This is pepper
town! |
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Check
out this pottery store that went nuts with fresh chiles.
Fashion
stores like the one below always knew how to attract the target
group in town for the festival.. 
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Fiery Food Court

The
makeshift food court at the end of the Lungomare featured specialties
from Tuscany this year. We especially liked the Minestra di Pane
that Massimo Biagi recommended to us, a tasty bread soup, nicely
kicked up with peperoncino for the festival (for a recipe, see here). Also,
great Tuscan red wines were available at very acceptable prices -- 1
Euro is about US$ 1.28 (September 2006).
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This Year's Theme: Peperoncino and
Cedro
Every
year the Peperoncino Festival has a theme that combines the hot pods
with other culinary items, like chiles and beans last year, or truffles
the year before. This year, it's a special citrus fruit from Calabria -
the cedro.

Named
botanically as Citrus medica, cedri fruits are the giants among
the citrus varieties.They grow up to ten inches long and weigh up to
eight pounds. Nevertheless they have a thick layer of mesocarp and
relatively little flesh. Both the flesh and the outer peel are very
aromatic, though. The taste is similar to limes, and they're also
harvested and used in their green state. While limes grow in many
places,cedri need a specific micro climate. One part of he Tyrrhanian
coast of Calabria is one of the few such places, and it is even
named Riviera dei Cedri. The cedro flesh is used for tasty
jams, the outer peel is candied for fruit cake, and is also the flavor
base for the delicious Liquore di Cedro digestive schnapps. And
Nini even makes a delicious cedro ice cream tartufo with white
chocolate. The cedro plant’s fragrant flowers are used to make many commercial perfumes and are exported all over the world.
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There
was even a cedro panel discussion, with experts passionately talking
about the prized citrus fruit, its Asian heritage, the special climate
requirements, how this fruit was cultivated since the 8th century, and
about its religious significance (supposedly Eve gave Adam a cedro
fruit, not an apple. Hey, who knows?) The
one hour talk was accompanied by a sampling of cedro liquors and various
cedro sweets. Also, cedro fruits and plants were on display and for
sale.
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The
fragrant oils of the cedro peel are also used for cosmetics. Elisabetta Ferrara
presented a complete line of cedro cosmetics that carries her name. At
Elisabetta's booth we also found something we've been looking for
for
years: peperoncino soap. That's right, a chile pepper soap!
We
wonder if that soap makes you start sweating while cleaning
yourself. We bought a piece and will find out... |
A Striped Chile plus 249 other Varieties
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"Duecentocinquanta!",
Massimo Biagi proudly smiles -- No less than 250 varieties he
cultivated to have mature pods right in time for the festival.
Quite a feat. The pods are presented and sold by the piece to
chile lovers that crowd his display tables all day long, keeping
Massimo and his wife busy.
Someone
also gave him a variety that was supposed to be that mysterious
superhot "Naga
Jolokia". Of course it wasn't that hot. Another one we found
more interesting was a pepper plant with variegated pods that
resembled pepino melons. Here's Massimo showing that plant.
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"Professor
Pepper" Massimo Biagi |
That's it.
Just
kiddin'! There's more to come in Part
2 - so get a cup of cappuccino and keep reading!
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