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Cooking with Chipotles
by Nancy Gerlach
My love affair with chipotles began after only one taste--I immediately knew that their wonderful smoky heat would enhance any number of foods, and they haven't disappointed me yet!
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Chipotle Pod
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The flavor of the chipotle is complex and has been described in various ways: fruity, like dried pineapple or other dried fruits; sweet with a brown sugar undertone; smoky; tobacco-like; dusky; slightly chocolate; mesquite flavored; and even mushroom-like. Since chipotles are made from fully ripe, red jalapeños, they tend to be hotter that the green ones, but the smoking process balances the astringency or harshness and softens the taste. Their heat level ranges from medium to very hot.
Because of their complex flavor, chipotles combine well with a number of foods, including seafood, pork, chicken, and beef. Their fruity, sweet flavor complements citrus fruits (lemon, lime, orange), tropical fruits of all types, and the dusky taste mixes well with sour cream and mayonnaise. I can't make a barbecue sauce without them. However, chipotles do have a strong flavor and can easily overpower a dish, so start sparingly and carefully increase the amount to suit your taste.
Chipotles are available in dried, powdered, and pickled forms, are canned in a sauce, and processed into table sauces and pastes. The tan chipotle, or chipotle meco, is not as spicy as the chile morita or mora, the small, black-red chipotle, but for the most part, they can be used interchangeably in recipes. When using chipotles, unlike other chiles, the seeds and veins are usually left intact and only the stem is removed.
In the dried form, chipotles can be used as a whole pod or as a powder. If using whole, they first must be rehydrated or softened. Toasting the chile before rehydrating will increase the depth and complexity of the flavor, but is not required in order to use the chile. To toast, heat a comal or a heavy skillet over a medium high heat or in a 300 degree F oven. Break the stems off the chiles and toast them until they are fragrant.
To rehydrate, I use very hot tap water, not boiling, as that removes too much of the flavor. Soak only long enough to make them pliable, usually 20 minutes, again, as soaking too long will weaken the flavor. I usually discard the soaking water, but you can taste it first, and if it isn't bitter, use it as part of the cooking liquid. The chiles are now ready to be chopped or pureed for use in recipes.
Chipotle powder is used like any other chile powder to flavor rubs, sauces, chili con carne, etc. Remember, however, that powder retains full flavor and punch, so use it with caution. If powder isn't available you can make your own from whole pods by using a spice or coffee grinder. The chiles must be very, very dry, and if your pods are still pliable, toast them on a comal or roast them in the oven. If you are using a coffee grinder, first grind uncooked rice or soda crackers to remove the coffee oils and residue. Repeat after grinding the pods, unless chipotle flavored coffee appeals to you. Substitute 1 teaspoon of powder for each chile chipotle when cooking.
Canned chipotles in an adobado sauce, or chipotles en adodo, are the easiest to use and the most versatile. You can use them with or without the sauce, as the flavor varies from product to product--some contain more vinegar and others have a stronger tomato taste, so sample a number of them and decide which one you prefer. If you are substituting canned for dried, be sure to rinse the chile well unless the recipe calls for a chipotle en adobo.
Chipotles come in other forms as well. When substituting a chipotle-based table sauce, use approximately 1 tablespoon of the sauce for one pod. There are other smoked chiles on the market, such as pasillas de Oaxaca or habanero, and they can be used in recipes calling for the traditional chipotle. Remember the different heat levels when substituting, and make adjustments in the amount you use. The pasilla will be milder, but watch out for the smoked habanero!
Grilled Tomato and Chipotle Chicken Soup
This recipe from Chef Bill Gragg of the Assets Bar and Grill in Albuquerque, uses dried chipotles, but chipotles en adobo can be substituted if they are rinsed well.
2 large or 3 small dried
chipotles
8 roma tomatoes, cut in half
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 large red onion, julienned
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, diced
2 tablespoons lime juice, fresh preferred
1 gallon chicken broth
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Salt to taste
Rehydrate the chiles in very hot water for 20 minutes, or until they are soft. Place the chiles in a blender or food processor with a little of the broth, and puree until smooth.
Grill the tomatoes over an open fire or roast them in the oven until they are blackened. Remove the skins.
Heat the oil in a sauce pot and sauté the onion and chicken until the onions are transparent. Add the tomatoes and simmer over low heat until the tomatoes have broken down.
Add the chile puree, lime juice, and chicken broth. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the chicken is tender.
Add the cilantro and serve.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Salsa de Chipotle
This traditional Mexican table sauce is normally made in a molacajete, or 3 legged stone mortar, but a blender or food processor are acceptable substitutes. Serve with tacos, tostadas, burritos, etc., or use it as a wonderful barbecue sauce.
3 or 4 dried chipotles
6 to 8 (½ pound) tomatillos, husks left on
2 cloves garlic, unpeeled
3 tablespoons minced onion
1/4 cup water or chicken broth
1 teaspoon vinegar
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Heat a comal or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and toast the chiles until they are fragrant. Remove from heat and place in very hot water to soften, then drain.
Add the tomatillos and garlic to the comal and toast gently until they are browned and the flesh is soft, about 10 minutes. Let cool and remove the skins.
Place the chiles in a blender or food processor along with a little of the broth, and puree until smooth. Add all the remaining ingredients and blend briefly.
Yield: 1 1/2 cups
Heat Scale: Hot
Roasted Garlic and Chipotle Mashed Potatoes
These potatoes are very high in flavor and lower in fat than the traditional ones. I sometimes leave the skins on the potatoes for extra taste.
4 to 6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
1 teaspoon olive oil
2 chipotles en adobo
2 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 tablespoons butter
½ cup low-fat milk
1/4 cup plain yogurt
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Garnish: Freshly ground Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Rub the garlic with the oil and wrap in a piece of aluminum foil. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes or until soft. Cool and squeeze the cloves out of the skins, then mince.
Place the chiles with a little of the adobo sauce in a blender or food processor and puree until they are smooth.
In a saucepan, cover the potatoes with cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly and cook for 30 minutes until they are tender. Drain the potatoes well.
Place the potatoes in a large mixing bowl along with garlic, butter, milk, and yogurt. Beat until smooth and creamy, adding more yogurt or milk if necessary. Gently stir in the chile and season with the salt and pepper.
Garnish with the cheese and serve.
Yields: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Mild
Chipotle Appetizer Meatballs
These spicy meatballs are a wonderful appetizer and, when served in a chafing dish, will hold for a long time. Simple to prepare, they can be made ahead of time and reheated before serving.
Sauce:
1 medium onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup tomato sauce
2 cups beef broth
1/4 cup chipotles en adobo along with the sauce, stems removed
Meatballs:
1 pound ground beef
1 pound ground pork
½ cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup bread crumbs
1 egg, beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil for frying
Garnish: Chopped fresh cilantro
To make the sauce, sauté the onion and garlic in the oil until they are lightly browned. Add the tomato sauce, broth, and the chipotles in adobo sauce. Heat the mixture to just under boiling and simmer for 20 minutes. Place the sauce in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth.
To make the meatballs, combine the beef, pork, onion, cilantro, bread crumbs, egg, and season with salt and pepper. Gently mix, then form into small meatballs. Pour a couple of tablespoons of the oil in a heavy saucepan and brown the meatballs. Remove and drain.
Return the sauce to the pan, add the meatballs and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes to finish cooking the meat.
To serve: place in a chafing dish, garnish with the cilantro and serve accompanied with toothpicks.
Yield: 8 servings as an appetizer
Heat Scale: Mild
Spicy Chicken Livers
This is my husband Jeff's favorite recipe for chicken livers. If liver doesn't appeal to you, substitute cubed beef and turn the recipe into a spicy stroganoff.
2 dried chiles or 2 chipotles en
abobo
3 to 4 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 cup sliced mushrooms, such as portabello or cremini
1 pound chicken livers
Flour for dusting
2 cups chicken broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup sour cream
2 cups cooked egg noodles
Garnish: Chopped fresh parsley
Toast the dried chile on a hot comal or in the oven, if desired. Cover the chile with very hot water and rehydrate until they are soft. Place the chile in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth.
Melt some of the butter in a large skillet and sauté the onion and mushrooms until the onions are browned. Remove and keep warm.
Dust the livers with flour, shaking off any excess. Brown the livers in the onion pan, adding more butter if necessary.
Return the onion mixture to the skillet and stir in the chile puree and the broth, then season with the salt and pepper. Simmer the mixture until the livers are almost done, about 10 minutes. Mix a little of the hot broth into the sour cream and add this mixture to the livers. Gently simmer until the sauce has thickened and the livers are tender.
Serve the livers over the noodles and garnish with the chopped parsley.
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Mild
Also of Interest:
The Evolution of Chipotle Flavor