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COOKING WITH SALSAS
By Nancy Gerlach, R.D.
Salsa! The word alone conjures up images of fiestas, brash rhythms, bright colors and hot and spicy flavors. But salsas are more than Latin concoctions from south of the border; they literally know no ethnic boundaries. Interest in worldwide cuisines has shown that many countries have similar dishes: sambals in Indonesia, chutneys from India, the fruit and chile mixes from the West Indies, Mexican table salsas, piccalillis of the American South and, if I really stretch it, the relishes from England, can all be classified as salsas.
Salsas are used to accent meals in tropical areas of the world, and probably evolved because it is hard to tolerate heavy cream and egg sauces in hot climates. Even in the tropical areas that were colonized by the French and English, who are notorious gravy and sauce eaters, spicy salsas are popular while gravies never took hold. Because they can replace a high fat sauce with a low fat, high flavor alternative, salsas have continued to grow in popularity with the health conscious public.
What exactly is a salsa? One definition states that it's a "seasoned sauce used for dipping or as a condiment." Mexicans define a salsa as a sauce, and all sauces as salsas. My own definition is that salsas are a mixture of raw or partially cooked vegetables and/or fruits, herbs, and, of course, chiles. Really, anything from vegetables, fruits, and nuts, to fish and meat can be used to make salsa, as long as the flavors blend well. Essentially, these ingredients are just chopped and mixed--salsas retain their texture while a sauce is cooked and then usually pureed until smooth. I divide them into the following three categories: tomato-based, vegetable, and fruit. Any that do not fit into these categories I classify as general or exotic.
Tomato-based salsas
Probably the most common, the tomato-based salsas are most often associated with the term salsa. The main ingredients of these salsas are tomatoes, onions, and chile, and they are found on tables throughout the Southwest and Mexico. Commercial salsas may contain ripe red and unripe green tomatoes as well as yellow, Italian plum or Roma tomatoes, and cherry varieties. Tomatillos, sometimes called husk tomatoes, also fall in this category.
Despite the year-round availability of fresh tomatoes, dried and even canned ones are generally used. Roasting the tomatoes and vegetables and including some of the roasted skins has become popular and adds another dimension to the flavor. These salsas lend themselves well to cooking in just about any dish that calls for a tomato product, and they can also be used to top pasta or even pureed and used as a sauce.
Vegetable Salsas
Aside from a couple of exceptions such as onions, vegetables can be the dominant flavor in a salsa. Popular choices include corn, dried beans and peas, chayote squash, artichokes, and even sweet potatoes and eggplants. There is even a wonderful salsa from the Yucatán in Mexico that uses radishes as the main ingredient. Many of these salsas can be warmed and served as a side dish in place of a vegetable, or as a spread on sandwiches. I often use a vegetable salsa as a filling for tamales, chiles rellenos, or enchiladas. Some of the lighter vegetable salsas can be served as a salad or used as a salad dressing.
Fruit Salsas
The flavor combination of hot and sweet (and/or tart) is one of my favorites, so it follows that fruit salsas are also some of my favorites. Just about any fruit can be used but I personally like the tropical fruit blends that include bananas, pineapples, tamarinds, mangos and papayas. Many of you must agree, since commercial Caribbean salsas are currently hot sellers.
Freshly prepared fruit salsas are the most perishable type and are best used on the day that they're made. Use only the freshest of fruits or, when in a pinch, substitute dried fruits. Avoid using frozen fruits as freezing tends to destroy their texture. Fruit salsas are tasty when served either hot or cold, and go well with either fish or poultry. They are also great with desserts. Use them as a topping for ice cream, or as a filling for a tart or pastry.
Salsas are a great accent to any meal. They add a splash of color and can complement an entree, add zip to a chip, or, with a little creativity, become an ingredient in a delicious dish. Your imagination is the only limit.
Noodle and Shrimp Salad with Oriental Cucumber Relish
This basic salad can be changed by using a different salsa to dress the noodles. Try a commercial peanut-based salsa. If your salsa is too thick, thin it with a little oil or vinegar.
The Salad
2 cups cooked vermicelli or Chinese noodles
½ cup cooked shrimp or shredded cooked chicken
1 recipe Oriental Cucumber Relish (see recipe below)
1/4 cup chopped peanuts
Chopped fresh cilantro
Toss the noodles with the shrimp and cucumber relish. Garnish with the peanuts and cilantro and serve.
Serves: 2 as an entree or 4 as a side salad
Oriental Cucumber Relish
3 serrano or Thai green chiles, stems removed, minced
1 large cucumber, peeled and finely diced
1/4 cup shredded carrots
4 green onions, chopped, including the tops
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
½ teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon sugar
Combine all the ingredients and allow to sit for at least an hour to blend the flavors.
Yield: 1 to 1 ½ cups
Oven Baked Quesadillas with Roasted Corn and Turtle Bean Salsa
These quesadillas can be served as an hors d'oeuvre or as a luncheon entree. They are much tastier and prettier than a plain grilled cheese sandwich.
6 8-inch flour tortillas
3 cups grated Monterey Jack cheese or Mexican Manchego cheese
1 ½ cups Roasted Corn and Turtle Bean Salsa (see recipe below)
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Arrange 2 tortillas in a layer on a greased baking sheet. Top with ½ of the cheese and salsa. Top each with another tortilla and repeat with the cheese and salsa. Place the remaining tortillas on top and, if desired, sprinkle with a little more cheese.
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes or until the tortillas are slightly crisp and the cheese begins to melt.
Cut the quesadillas in wedges and serve with additional salsa on the side.
Serves: 4
Roasted Corn and Turtle Bean Salsa
2 ears fresh corn or 3/4 cup whole kernel corn (canned or frozen)
½ cup cooked Turtle (black) beans
1/4 cup diced red or green bell pepper
3 tablespoons finely minced red onion
2 jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, diced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons vinegar or lime juice
1 teaspoon dried oregano, Mexican preferred
Salt to taste
Cut the corn off the cob (if using ears) and put the kernels in a hot, dry saucepan and roast for 5 minutes, stirring constantly so that they don't burn.
Combine with the remaining ingredients and allow to sit for an hour to blend the flavors.
Yield: 2 cups
Barbecue Chipotle Halibut with Watermelon-Walla Walla Sweet Onion Salsa
The salsa recipe is courtesy of the National Watermelon Promotion Board and the Walla Walla Sweet Onion Marketing Committee. It is a refreshing change from more traditional salsas, and since it is low in calories and contains virtually no fat, it's a perfect example of the healthy trend in fresh salsas.
Fish
4 6 oz-halibut steaks or fillets
1 small onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons cooking oil
½ cup commercial chipotle sauce (your choice)
2 tablespoons honey
2 cups water
Salt to tasteWatermelon-Walla Walla Sweet Onion Salsa (see recipe below)
Sauté the onions and garlic in the oil until they are softened. Add the chipotle sauce, honey and water and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with the salt. Puree the mixture until smooth, adding more water if necessary to thin.
Dip the halibut in the sauce and grill over hot wood coals or chips to the desired temperature, approximately 1 to 3 minutes each side.
Serve with the watermelon salsa.
Serves: 4
Watermelon Salsa
1/4 cup orange marmalade
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup minced jalapeño chiles
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups chopped seeded watermelon
1 cup chopped Walla Walla Sweet Onion
1 cup chopped orange sections
Combine the marmalade, cilantro, jalapeño, vinegar, garlic and salt. Add the watermelon, onion and orange, and gently toss together until coated. Chill at least 30 minutes before serving.
Yield: 4 cups
Empanaditas with Mango Banana Habanero Salsa
Empanaditas are little fruit or meat filled pies. Just about any fruit salsa will work in this recipe, but I especially like the tropical ones. If you're short on time, ready-made pie crusts can be used for the pastry.
Empanaditas
1 recipe Mango Banana Habanero Salsa (see recipe below)
1 package active dry yeast
1 cup warm water
1/4 cup shortening
3 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg, beaten
Preheat an oven to 400 degrees.
Dissolve the yeast in the water.
Cut the shortening into the dry ingredients. Add the yeast water and mix well. Do not let the dough rise.
Separate the egg and lightly beat the white. Beat the yolk with 1 tablespoon of water. Set them aside.
Roll the dough to 1/4-inch thickness. If using a commercial pie crust, do not roll. Cut into circles 2 to 2 ½-inches in diameter. Place a spoonful of salsa off-center on a circle. Brush the edges of the circle with the egg white, fold over and crimp the edges to seal.
Brush the empanaditas with the egg yolk and bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until golden.
Yield: 2 dozen
Mango Banana Habanero Salsa
2 ripe mangos, peeled and diced
1 banana, diced
1/4 cup minced purple onion
1 habanero chile, stems removed, minced
1/4 cup orange juice
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mintCombine all the ingredients and allow to sit for an hour to blend the flavors.
Yield: 2 cups
Cold Gazpacho with Red Hot Chile Salsa
This cool soup with a spicy bite is very refreshing on a hot day. Technically not really cooking, it's a great way to "recycle" any leftover salsa. For a creamier gazpacho, add a ripe avocado.
1 cup Pico de Gallo (see following recipe)
1 small cucumber, peeled and diced
3 cups tomato juice
2 tablespoons red wine, optional
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Salt to taste
Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish
Place all the ingredients, except the cilantro, in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Refrigerate for a couple of hours until well chilled.
Garnish with the cilantro and serve.
Serves: 4
Pico de Gallo Salsa
3 jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, chopped very fine
1 small onion, chopped very fine
2 medium tomatoes, chopped very fine
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup red wine vinegar3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro
Combine all the ingredients and allow to sit for an hour to blend the flavors.
Yield: 2 cups