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Sweet Heat & Daring Desserts
by Melissa T. Stock and Dave DeWitt
Recipes:
The idea of combining sweet and heat has been around for more than 1000 years. The Mayans were the first to mix the luscious tastes of chocolate with chile powder and honey to create a fiery chocolate drink. They believed this treat was inspired by the gods. Today, hot and sweet foods have become an increasingly popular part of the growing $2 billion Fiery Foods Industry. Products include everything from jams and jellies to chocolates, cheesecakes, dessert sauces, cookies, cakes, pies and breads, suckers, nuts, gummy chiles, and even chocolate and chile covered fruit. Not surprisingly, there is even an entire cookbook devoted to the subject of hot desserts, called Sweet Heat, by Melissa T. Stock and Dave DeWitt (Ten Speed Press, 1996). This book has more than 150 chile-inspired desserts, from red chile carrot cake to well-spiced custards, sorbets, cookies and breads. The following is a sampling of some sweet hot desserts that are sure to please.
With the native chile and piñon nuts, it's not surprising that this is one of New Mexico's favorite candies.
½ teaspoon ground green chile powder
1 tablespoon ground New Mexican red chile
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup sugar
2 cups piñon nuts
Combine the chiles and salt.
Pour the oil into a 10 or 12 inch frying pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the sugar and stir for about 4 minutes, until the sugar is melted and begins to turn a golden color. Add the piñons to the mixture and stir about 4 minutes longer, until the melted sugar is a rich caramel color. Add the spices and stir about 1 minute more; remove from the heat immediately if the mixture begins to scorch.
Immediately pour the candy mixture onto a large sheet of foil, spreading it with a spoon to make the nuts 1 layer thick. Let the candy cool and harden. Next, break the candy into small pieces and serve.
Yield: 4 cups
Although mild to the taste, the flavor of the chile really comes through in this pie.
Warm Chocolate Pie Pastry:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cocoa
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon Chimayó red chile powder
1/8 cup vegetable shortening
1/4 cup unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons cold water
Sift all the dry ingredients together into a food processor.
Add the shortening to the flour. Cut the butter into chunks and add to the food processor and process until it is cut into very tiny pieces, about 1 minute.
Add the water and continue to mix until the dough wraps itself around the blade and forms a ball.
Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least ½ hour. Pastry can be kept in the refrigerator for about a week or it can be frozen for several months. If frozen, defrost slowly in refrigerator before using.
Pie Filling:
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup commercial fudge sauce
3 eggs, beaten
3/4 cup dark corn syrup
½ cup dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons Chimayó red chile powder
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/4 cups pecan halves
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Line a 9-inch pie pan with the chocolate pie pastry and set aside.
Combine the butter and hot fudge and microwave on High for about a minute. Set aside.
Combine the eggs, corn syrup, sugar, fudge mixture, and vanilla. Stir in the pecans and pour mixture into the pie shell.
Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 degrees and continue baking for an additional 30 minutes, or until the edges are set.
Serves: 8 to 10
Heat Scale: Mild
Here's a modern version of the ancient Mayan drink.
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa
1 tablespoon flour
1/3 cup granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon finely ground New Mexican red chile
1 cup water
2 cups half-half
1 cup milk
1 cup whipping cream
1 ½ teaspoons vanilla
Freshly grated nutmeg
6 whole cinnamon sticks
Combine the cocoa, flour, sugar cinnamon, cloves and red chile with the water in a large saucepan. Stir or whisk until very blended. Heat the mixture until bubbling and just beginning to simmer. Gradually add the half and half, then the milk in a very fine stream, stirring constantly. Beat with a molina or a whisk. Heat until hot, but do not boil, and keep warm for at least five minutes. Whip the cream with the vanilla. Whip the chocolate again just before serving, until it is very frothy. Top with a dollop of the whipped cream and a pinch of nutmeg. Insert a cinnamon stick into each mug and serve.
Yield: 6 4-ounce servings
Heat Scale: Medium
Here's a simple dessert that's full of raisiny ancho chile flavor.
4 ounces sweet baking chocolate
4 ounces semisweet chocolate
1/4 cup Grand Marnier
1 teaspoon freshly ground ancho chile powder
2 cups whipping cream
½ cup sifted confectioners' powder
Semisweet chocolate curls for garnish
Combine the chocolates, Grand Marnier, and ancho powder in a heavy saucepan, and cook over low heat until the chocolate melts, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat, and cool until lukewarm.
Beat the whipping cream and add the confectioners' sugar, until soft peaks form. Gently fold about one quarter of the whipped cream into the chocolate, then fold in the remaining whipped cream. Spoon the mousse into individual serving dishes, and chill until ready to serve. Garnish with semisweet chocolate swirls.
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Mild