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Nancy’s Fiery Fare:
Blazing Brochettes
by Nancy Gerlach, Fiery-Foods.com Food Editor
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Recipes in this Issue: |
Brochette is French for a spit or skewer used for grilling, and to cook "en brochette" is to grill or broil small cubes of food--usually but not necessarily meat--on a skewer. But France isn’t the only country where this type of cooking is found. In Japan they are called "yakitori," in Indonesia "satays," and "kofta" throughout the Middle East. "Shish kebabs" were a favorite of Asian horseman who traveled southward from the Caucasus to the Mediterranean and have remained so in all the areas that they conquered.
Early human hunters were probably the first to thread meat on sticks and cook them over an open fire, and, although the ingredients used today vary greatly, man's earliest method of preparing foods is still popular around the world. I can’t think of many foods that are as much fun to make and eat as brochettes. They are one of my favorites because they can usually be prepared way in advance of cooking, which is great if you are entertaining, can be served as an appetizer as well as an entree, and when served on a bed of rice, they make a colorful presentation. And there are endless combinations of foods that can be used.
There are a few basics to preparing and cooking brochettes that you need to keep in mind. The first is that all the foods on the skewer need to be done at the same time. If you are using of ingredients with different cooking times, this can be a problem. A couple of ways you can get around this is to adjust the sizes of the pieces making some thinner and others thicker, by partially or precooking the longer cooking foods, and by just being aware that some foods will cook more quickly and should not be combined on the same brochette. For example, shrimp and beef should be put on two separate skewers so that the beef can be started earlier.
The only additional equipment that is needed for making brochettes are the skewers. These can be made out of metal or bamboo and can be round or flat. Tastewise it doesn’t matter which type you use but the shape can make the grilling easier. Trying to brown round pieces of food on round skewers is almost an impossibility. They just keep rolling around. This can be remedied by threading the food on two parallel skewers with a space in between. When making brochettes with ground meat, it is sometimes easier to use a flat skewer and to flatten the meatball into an oval on the skewer itself. And, if you are using bamboo skewers, either soak them in water for an hour or cover the tips with foil to prevent them from burning when cooking.
Finally, it is important to remember this is not "walkaway" cooking. Brochettes need to be watched carefully when cooking because if overcooked they will lose their juiciness and become tough. So grab a cold one, fire up your imagination as well as the grill, and enjoy some blazing brochettes.
Grilled Fish Brochettes Middle Eastern-Style
This recipe is a variation of one that appears in Dave DeWitt’s and my new book The Barbecue Inferno published by Ten Speed Press. Since technically there are fourteen or more countries that can be classified as Middle Eastern, this recipe reflects a style rather that a single country. It is designed so that the spice flavors don’t overwhelm the fish but compliment it. Serve with a tablouleh salad, orzo or rice, and sauteed zucchini, eggplant, and tomatoes.
1 ½ pounds firm white fish, such as mahimahi, halibut, or swordfish, about 1-inch thick
Marinade:
½ cup chopped onion
2 jalapeno chiles, stems and seeds removed, chopped
1 large clove garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons lemon juice, fresh preferred
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ teaspoon ground paprika
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
Freshly ground black pepper
Cut the fish into cubes 1-inch thick.
Place all the ingredients for the marinade in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Place the fish in a glass dish and pour the marinade over them. Marinate the fish for an hour at room temperature, covered.
Remove the fish from the marinade and thread on skewers. Liberally oil the barbecue grill so the fish will not stick. Grill over a medium heat until lightly browned and done, about 2 minutes per side.
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
This recipe is for a dish called the national snack of Peru. It’s prepared and sold by street vendors all over the country. Traditionally it is made with beef heart, but I’ve substituted sirloin for a more tender kebab. Achiote paste is made from the red seeds of the annatto tree and is used as a seasoning and to impart a yellow coloring. Available in Latin markets, mail order, or in speciality sections of grocery stores, the paste is much easier to use than the seeds.
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons achiote paste
3 aji or jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, chopped
1 tablespoons crushed red New Mexican chile
4 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ½ pounds sirloin beef, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 onion, cut in wedges and separated
Heat the oil in saucepan until hot and simmer the cumin seeds in the oil for 5 minutes. Strain the oil and discard the seeds.
Place all the ingredients, except for the beef and onion, in a blender and or food processor and puree until smooth. Put the beef and onions in a nonreactive bowl or plastic bag, cover with the mixture and marinate for 2 to 4 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator.
Thread the beef and onion wedges on a skewer and grill over a medium fire until medium rare about 10 to 12 minutes, basting frequently with the marinade. Cut one cube open as a sample to check for doneness.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Heat Scale: Hot
Shish kebabs made from both ground and cubed meats, usually lamb, continue to be popular throughout the Middle East. This recipe is based on kebabs from southern Turkey where chiles are more widely used. Serve with a rice pilaf or in a pita bread pocket for a middle-eastern sandwich. Using a flat skewers rather that round to mold the meat onto will make cooking a whole lot easier.
4 green New Mexican chiles, stems and seeds removed, finely chopped
1 ½ pounds finely ground lamb
½ cup finely chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 egg, beaten
2 tablespoons finely chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 bell pepper, stems and seeds removed, cut in wedges
1 small onion, cut in wedges and separated
8 large mushrooms
Olive oil
2 pieces pita bread
Combine all the ingredients, except the bell pepper, onion, and mushrooms in a bowl and knead until smooth like dough. Break off pieces of the meat and form into ovals on the skewers. Refrigerate, covered, for at least an hour or overnight.
Alternately thread the onion wedges, pepper wedges, and mushrooms on separate skewers, beginning and ending with a pepper. Brush the vegetables with the oil.
Remove the meat skewers from the refrigerator. Grill all the skewers over a medium heat until the meat is browned about 4 minutes on each side and the vegetables are tender but still crisp.
Serve these kebabs in a warmed pita bread.
Serves: 4
Heat Scale: Mild
Yakatori got its name from the Japanese words-- yaki for grilled and tori for chicken. I have already taken some liberties with traditional recipes in making this spicy version, so if you would prefer, it can also be made with pork. Plain white rice and a crisp cucumber salad is all that is need to complete a light and tasty meal.
3 chicken breasts
6 green onions, cut in 1-inch pieces
8 water chestnuts
Glaze:
2 teaspoons crushed chile piquin
1 tablespoon chile oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 1/4 cup rice wine or dry sherry
2/3 cup mirin*
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons minced ginger
Cut the chicken into cut into 1-inch cubes or cut crosswise into pieces 2-inches long and ½-inch thick and wide. Thread the chicken on skewers alternating with the onion and water chestnuts.
Combine the chile, oils, rice wine, mirin, soy sauce, sugar, and ginger in a saucepan. Cook over a medium heat until just boiling, reduce the heat, and simmer, uncovered, until the sauce is reduced by half and forms a glaze.
Grill the yakatori over a medium heat for 2 minutes per side or until slightly browned. Brush liberally with the glaze and continue cooking for a couple more minutes per side until the chicken is done. Remove, brush again with the glaze and serve.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Heat Scale: Hot
*Mirin is sweet sake and is available in Oriental markets.
Indonesian satays (or sates) are grilled, skewered bite-sized pieces of meat that are eaten as a appetizer or part of the meal itself. They contain meat only and are served with a sauce on the side. When serving a marinade as a sauce that has been used with raw meat, it is essential that it be boiled and simmered for 15 to 20 minutes to kill any bacteria. Or, reserve some of the mixture to be used as a sauce and not use it as the marinade.
1 cup chopped onions
4 Thai chiles, or substitute serrano chiles, stems removed
1 tablespoon chopped ginger
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon lime juice, fresh preferred
2 teaspoons grated lime peel
½½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sugar
1 ½ cups coconut milk
1 ½ pounds pork loin, cut in 1-inch cubes
Place the chiles, onion, ginger, and garlic in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth, adding water if necessary to make a paste.
Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan, add the paste and saute the mixture for a couple of minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, except the beef, and simmer until the sauce starts to thicken, about 15 minutes. Allow the mixture to cool.
Place the pork cubes in a heavy plastic bag and add the sauce. Marinate the pork, at room temperature, for an hour. Remove the pork and put the marinade in a saucepan.
Bring the marinade to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.
Thread the pork cubes on skewers and grill or broil the satays until done, about 8 minutes. Cut one cube to check for doneness.
To serve, place the satays on a platter, brush with the sauce and serve the remaining sauce on the side for dipping.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Heat Scale: Hot
