Nancy’s Fiery Fare:

Eggs to Dye For

by Nancy Gerlach, Fiery-Foods.com Food Editor

(Editor’s Note: Nancy is not only a registered dietitian, she keeps chickens.
So the collision of her vocation and her avocation led to this article.)

It’s the time of year when the color of the New Mexico landscape changes from winter browns to the greens of spring. The forsythia and daffodils are blooming, fruit trees are flowering, and the desert winds have started to blow–sure signs that spring is here and Mother Nature is waking up. Spring is also the time of year when cute little bunnies take the credit for what the chickens produce--eggs to be dyed for Easter. But long before the egg became associated with the Christian holiday, it was an important part of the mythology, religion, and rites of many cultures.

The egg has played a predominant role in many creation stories. Phoenicians, for example, believed that an egg produced in the primeval waters split open to form heaven and earth. In ancient Egypt, there were two creation stories that related to eggs. In one, Geb, the great cackler, and Nut, the sky goddess, produced an egg which gave birth to the sky and earth and in the other, the egg itself was created from the sun and the moon. And in China, the belief is that the first man came from an egg dropped from heaven by Tien, the controlling power of the universe.

Throughout history, special powers have been attributed to eggs, including the ability to predict the future, bring good luck and guard against the bad, to cure ills both social and medical, and to guard against infertility and insure plentiful harvests. In Rome, Nero’s consort Livia used an egg to determine the gender of her unborn child. She kept an egg in the "warmth of her corsage" (cleavage), until it hatched. And when hatched, the sex of the chick would foretell the sex of the child. A male chick hatched, she gave birth to the Emperor Tiberius, and the old wive’s tale about an egg determining the sex of a child was born. On the other side of the world, Mayans would use an egg to break the spell of the evil eye. The ritual included waving an egg in front of the affected person, cracking it open and reading the yolk, and finally the contents were buried in a secret place.

The supposed power of the egg was not limited to living beings. Buildings have been blessed by egg concoctions smeared on them, eggs buried under them, as well as eggs mixed in the mortar holding them together. And the best one is that if you can find the secret of the philosopher’s egg, alchemists believed you could turn base metal into gold.

Coloring and exchanging eggs have been a part of spring festivals that celebrate the earth and sun’s rebirth from the winter’s darkness long before the Christian Easter. Ancient Greeks, Persians, Egyptians, and Chinese all have used dyed eggs, usually red, in their springtime rites. The significance of the egg has its roots in very early history and probably relates to this renewal for two reasons. First because you can actually see life being hatched from an egg, and secondly due to the lengthening of the days at this time of year and its affect on hens. The increase in sunlight causes hens to start laying after their winter dormancy period, and thus the cycle of birth begins again. With the advent of Christianity however, the egg came to represent the rebirth of man, not nature and the earth.

Over time, decorating eggs became more elaborate than just coloring them. In the middle ages, Edward I of England had four hundred and fifty eggs gold leafed to give as Easter gifts. And the intricate hand-decorated Ukrainian eggs are truly works of art. The most famous, and the most expensive eggs however, are those made by the goldsmith Peter Carl Fabergé in the 1880s. He was commissioned by the Russian Czar Alexander to create an Easter gift for this wife, the Empress Marie. The first egg he made opened to display a smaller golden egg, which opened to reveal a golden chicken and a jeweled replica of the Imperial crown. The Czarina was so delighted with the gift that the Czar ordered Fabergé to design a new egg every Easter. After the Czar’s death, his son Nicholas II continued the custom. Fifty-seven eggs were made over the same number of years and the most expensive one ever sold was the Winter Egg, which brought $5.6 million in 1994.

Eggs have been eaten and enjoyed for hundreds of years, but over the last few, they’s gotten a bad rap because of their cholesterol level. But if you love eggs, there is some good news. Modern testing equipment has determined that their cholesterol content is more in the range of 214-220 mg. rather than 274 mg. as previously thought. So it is possible to include eggs in a healthy diet and still keep within the recommended level of 300 mg. or less of cholesterol per day.

With just the right mix of essential amino acids needed by humans to build tissues, eggs contain the highest quality--and the most inexpensive--protein you can buy. Eggs also contain thirteen essential vitamins and minerals and are second only to mother’s milk for human nutrition.

About the only nutrient that eggs are only lacking is Vitamin C and that’s because chickens are able to produce the ascorbic acid they need from their feed. A large egg contains only 75 calories and 5 grams of fat. The biggest misconception I hear about eggs is that the brown eggs are more nutritious and have more flavor than the white ones. The only difference between the two is that white feathered chickens lay eggs with white shells and brown hens lay brown eggs.

I do love eggs. I like them so much that I raise a few chickens, just to enjoy fresh eggs with bright orange tasty yolks. So although I won’t be cooking and dyeing big batches of them at this time of year, I always have a number of eggs in my refrigerator at all times. The following recipes will give you some suggestions and ideas for enjoying hard-cooked eggs if you find yourself, as many do, with a number eggs after the Easter "hunt" is over.

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Recipes

Caribbean Crab-Stuffed Deviled Eggs

Stuffed eggs are the most obvious ways to use up left-over Easter eggs and deviled eggs are also one my favorite ways to eat them. There are any number of variations of the old standard and these are special enough for an hors d’oeuvre party table. Since older eggs are easier to peel, be sure to use them when you need a smooth, clean egg. Use a pastry bag and pipe in the filling for a fancy presentation.

• 8 hard-cooked eggs, peeled

• 2 teaspoons cider vinegar

• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise

• ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

• ½ teaspoon habanero hot sauce

• 1/4 teaspoon Dijon-type mustard

• 6 ounces flaked crabmeat

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• Garnish: Finely chopped fresh parsley

Cut the eggs in half lengthwise and remove the yolks. Put the yolks from 5 of the eggs in a bowl and mash with a fork. Sprinkle the vinegar over the yolks and toss the yolks so that the vinegar is distributed.

Add the mayonnaise, thyme, hot sauce, and mustard and mix to combined. Mix in the crab and

season to taste with salt and pepper. Allow the filling to sit for 15 minutes for the flavors to blend. Adjust the seasonings before filling the eggs.

Mound about 1 tablespoon crab mixture in cavity of each egg-white half. At this point, the eggs can be covered and refrigerated for future use. To serve, arrange the filled eggs on a platter and garnish with the parsley.

Yield: 16 halves

Heat Scale: Mild to Medium

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Enchiladas Stuffed with Hard-Cooked Eggs (Papadzul)

Eggs play an important role in the cuisine of Yucatán, especially hard-cooked eggs, which are a major ingredient in many popular recipes. Very unique to the Yucatán, these enchiladas are traditionally served garnished with a green oil that is squeezed from toasted pumpkin seeds, but they taste good with or without it. This is a very old Mayan recipe originally made with turkey eggs and it has reputed to have been served to served to the Spaniards when they arrived in the New World. After the Spaniards arrived, chickens and their eggs replaced turkeys in popularity.

• 2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped

• 1 habanero chile, stem and seeds removed

• 1 tablespoon dried epazote

• 2 cups chicken broth

• 1 small onion, chopped

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

• 1 cup toasted pumpkin seeds, finely ground

• 8 corn tortillas

• 6 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and chopped

Combine the tomatoes, chile, epazote, and broth in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove and strain, saving both the tomatoes and the broth.

Heat one-half of the oil in a skillet and saute until hot and add to the tomato mixture. Place the mixture in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Saute the sauce in the remaining oil for 5 minutes.

Heat the tomato broth in a another skillet and slowly stir in the seeds. Simmer until the mixture thickens and is the consistency of thick cream, stirring constantly. Be very careful that the sauce does not boil or it may curdle.

Dip the tortillas in the warm pumpkin seed sauce to coat and soften. Place some of the chopped eggs in the center, roll up, and place on a platter. Pour the remaining pumpkin seed sauce over the top, then the tomato sauce, and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Heat Scale: Medium

Note: If your tortillas are stiff, heat some vegetable oil until very hot and dip the tortillas in the oil for a couple of seconds. Drain on paper towels.

(From Foods of the Maya, A Taste of the Yucatán, by Nancy and Jeff Gerlach, University of New Mexico Press, 2002.)

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Mottai Kolambu (Egg Curry in a Coconut Gravy)

The area of Madras has one of the hottest cuisines in India, which is known for spicy food. In fact it is one of the biggest exporters of Indian spices. This very simple dish is a favorite there in the south where the use of coconut milk in curries is popular. The sweetness of the milk compliments the pungency of their curries. Egg curry is served at any time and is a great spicy addition to brunch or for a light supper. Serve Mottai Kolambu with white rice and an Indian relish or salad.

• 6 hard cooked eggs, peeled

• 1 large onion, finely chopped

• 2 ripe tomatoes, halved

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 teaspoons ground cayenne chile

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• 1 teaspoon ground coriander

• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric

• 1 cup roasted cashew nuts

• 14 ounces unsweetened coconut milk

• ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro or mint leaves

• Salt to taste

Cut the eggs in half and arrange them in a serving dish.

In a heavy skillet, heat the oil and saute the onions over a medium low heat until they are soft. Add the tomatoes, cayenne, cumin, coriander, and turmeric, and raise the heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture thickens.

Add the cashews and cook for an additional couple of minutes.

Stir in the coconut milk and fresh cilantro or mint, reserving some for a garnish. Simmer the sauce for an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

To serve, pour the curry sauce over the eggs and garnish with the reserved herbs.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Heat Scale: Hot

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Hot and Spicy Pickled Eggs

I was first introduced to pickled eggs in college, where a group of us would hang out in an old wood-paneled bar, drink beer, shoot pool, and eat pickled eggs and pretzel sticks. Even after all these years, I still like pickled eggs and pretzels. When making them, I add a little juice from pickled beets to color them just like the original eggs, but you can color them yellow with ground turmeric or leave them natural. To prevent the dark green line that sometimes forms around the yolk, immediately plunge the egg in cold water to cool them down. The ring forms because of a reaction with the iron in the yolk and the sulfur in the whites. Over the years, I began adding chiles to "jack-up" the heat level. Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.

• 12 hard-cooked eggs, peeled

• 4 jalapeño chiles, cut in half, stem and seeds removed or substitute habanero chiles

• 1 tablespoon kosher or pickling salt

• 1½ cups white vinegar

• ½ cup water

• 1 tablespoon commercial pickling spice

• 1 tablespoon pickled beet liquid, optional

• 1 teaspoon white peppercorns, crushed

• 1 bay leaf

• ½ teaspoons allspice, crushed

Put the eggs and chiles in a clean glass jar.

Combine the remaining ingredients in a non-reactive saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for mixture for 10 minutes. Let the pickling liquid cool for 15 minutes and then pour over the eggs.

Cover the jar and refrigerate for a week to allow the eggs to absorb the flavors. The eggs will keep for several weeks under refrigeration.

To serve, place an egg on a square of waxed butchers wrapping paper, add some pretzel sticks, and pop the top off a cold one.

Yield: 12 eggs

Heat Scale: Medium Hot to Hot

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Wilted Spinach with Bacon and Balsamic Dressing

This is a simple, hearty salad that is often served as an entree at our house. With a cup of chilled soup and a piece of hearty bread, it makes a great summer meal on a hot day. Use only the freshest of spinach--be sure the leaves are chilled before pouring the dressing hot over the top. This is a salad I finish at the table for a dramatic effect when it crackles and wilts.

• 6 cups fresh spinach, washed, dried, and chilled

• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings

• 2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped

• 2 to 3 slices bacon

• 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

• 2 teaspoons crushed red chile

• Freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the spinach in a large salad bowl, add the onions, and top with the eggs. Place the salad in the refrigerator and chill thoroughly.

Heat a skillet until medium hot, add the bacon and fry until crisp. Remove the bacon and drain on paper towels. Crumble the bacon and reserve.

In a bowl, whisk the two vinegars together to combine.

Pour off all but 3 to 3 ½ tablespoons of the bacon fat from the skillet. Heat the fat and add the crushed chile, being very careful that the chile doesn’t burn.

Toss the salad with the vinegar mixture, pour the hot oil over the top and toss gently to coat and wilt. The spinach edges should be slightly softened and the remainder of the leaf still crisp. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper and the reserved crumbled bacon and serve on chilled salad plates.

Yield: 4 servings

Heat Scale: Mild

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