What does it mean to have a Doctorate in Barbecue Philosophy? That was the question my editor, Dave DeWitt, asked when I mentioned I was a candidate for the prestigious Kansas City Barbeque Society's (KCBS) "Greasehouse University" diploma.

For those few that have the distinction of adding "Ph.B." after their names (there are only 24 persons who hold the degree), it's more than a set of initials. "The Doctorate in Barbecue Philosophy carries so much more than just a title after a name!" explains Ron Harwell, Ph.B., of Trinity, Alabama. "It tells others in the barbecue arena that you a have a sincere desire to promote barbecue as a sport and as a hobby and not because you expect barbecue to give something back to you. A successful written and oral dissertation requires serious effort on your part and not everyone in this community is willing to make that extra effort."

Ardie Davis, Ph.B. of Shawnee Mission, Kansas, known to most on the barbecue circuit as Remus Powers, founded the KCBS Greasehouse University in the summer of 1984. "I tell people that barbecuers were the original philosophers," he explains. "Back in prehistoric times our ancestors would sit around the pit and talk about the meaning of life and other such philosophical matters while enjoying the barbecue meat of the day. That's where we got the expression, 'I have a bone to pick with you.'"

Whether or not that's accurate, it is an interesting take on the history of barbecue.

"When the KCBS was launched, the university became a part of the organization. It's mostly informal until we get a $20 million grant to establish a small campus. I have some elaborate plans if we ever get a benefactor--but will need more millions to get it done. The name comes from a remark by the late Arthur Bryant. Fame and publicity didn't impress him. He often said, 'This place is just a greasehouse,'" Dr. Powers comments.

For me, the completion of my doctorate occurred at the seventeenth annual Jack Daniel's World Championship Invitational Barbecue held in Lynchburg, TN, in October. It was the culmination of three years of work, a dissertation, a written examination, and a grueling two-hour oral examination held by faculty members where all things barbecue were discussed, debated, and argued. Faculty members conducting the oral examination all hold their doctorate of barbecue philosophy. For my questioning, I had the dubious distinction of having some of the most veteran Ph.B. holders: Carolyn Wells, KCBS executive director; Tony Stone, KCBS president; Ed Roith, KCBS judging instructor; Tana Shupe from Jack Daniel's; Remus Powers, Greasehouse University founder; Jim Tabb, a well-respected barbecuer and National Barbecue News writer; and Marge Plummer from Memphis, a retired FedEx executive, a Memphis in May certified judge, KCBS master certified judge, and KCBS certified table captain.

"Prior to submitting a dissertation, the applicant must request candidacy by establishing their qualifications for the degree," Dr. Powers notes. "Qualifications include a summary of their career in barbecue, with emphasis on outstanding accomplishments and contributions to the promotion of barbecue. The dissertations are submitted to members of the Greasehouse University faculty for review and comment. If approved unanimously by the faculty, the candidate moves to the next stage, the oral exam."

My dissertation was the publication of Mastering Barbecue by Ten Speed Press. The barbecue cookbook, a compilation of recipes, tips, and techniques, followed nearly ten years of research and experimentation. It has received critical acclaim from several reviewers--fortunately it also met the criteria for the Greasehouse University faculty. The written examination, a series of questions covering economic and sociological aspects of barbecue, turned out to be a 39-page double-spaced document submitted to the faculty for their approval!

And what does three years of work achieve? As Dr. Harwell says, it's a distinction, an honor, and a privilege accorded to few individuals in the barbecue community. And from my humble perspective, I am proud to add a Ph.B. to my barbecue accomplishments.

But my editor was not entirely convinced, and he wanted even more proof of my Ph.B. abilities. Can you believe it? "Pick your best recipes and submit them to our readers," he ordered. "Let them decide if you deserve the degree." So, here they are. Let me know what you think of my Ph.B. abilities by emailing me here.

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Recipes

Carolina Pulled Pork

 

    

Pulled pork is not a difficult recipe to prepare but it is time-consuming. A dry rub seasons the pork before it is cooked and a vinegary mop is daubed onto the meat to add more flavor as it smokes. Once cooked, the meat is pulled into shreds, sauced, piled on hamburger buns and topped with a mustard cole slaw for the quintessential Carolina barbecue. Pork shoulder, a cut of meat that weighs 14 to 18 pounds, includes both the Boston butt (the upper part of the front leg with the blade bone) and the picnic ham (the actual foreleg). The following recipe calls for a Boston butt, a smaller cut of meat, weighing just over 8 pounds.

2 (8-pound) bone-in Boston butts

1/4 cup prepared yellow mustard
8 to10 pounds natural lump charcoal
4 cups apple wood chips, soaked in warm water at least 30 minutes

4 fist-sized chunks hickory
16 soft hamburger buns, split

Cole slaw of choice

 

For the dry rub:

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

2 tablespoons hot Hungarian paprika

2 tablespoons celery seed

2 tablespoons cracked black pepper

2 tablespoons ground cumin

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon ground cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons sage

2 Bay leaves, crumbled

1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon Cackalacky Beer-B-Q seasoning (optional)

 

For the mop:

1/4 cup dry rub (see above)

1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar

1 cup apple juice

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt

2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes

 

To make the dry rub:

Mix all the ingredients in small bowl to blend. Using a spice grinder, pulse mixture in batches until smooth. (Makes 1 cup, enough for two butts and the mop.)

Place the pork on a work surface, remove the skin and trim the fat cap to an even 1/4-inch thickness. (Reserve the fat cap to place under the pork while smoking.) Place the pork on a large baking sheet and paint it with mustard. Sprinkle the dry rub evenly all over the pork. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours. (Can be prepared one day ahead and held in the refrigerator.) Bring the meat to room temperature before smoking.

To make the mop:

Mix the ingredients in medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. (Don't apply a cold mop to warm meat.)

Prepare a Weber Smoky Mountain cooker by half filling the fire ring with lump charcoal and starting a charcoal chimney full of charcoal. When the coals have fully ignited, add to the fire ring. Add 4 chunks of hickory wood and one cup drained apple wood chips; stabilize the temperature at 225 degrees F. Fill the water pan with warm water.

Place one butt on lower grate and second butt on the upper grate. Cover and smoke the pork for 3 hours. Mop the pork and continuing cooking, mopping every hour, until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 190 degrees F. (Total cooking time will vary depending on the heat of the smoker and the size of the butt. At 225 degrees F., plan on about 2 hours per pound; at 215 degrees F., about 2 1/2 hours per pound; and at 235 degrees F., about 1 1/2 hours per pound.) Add more charcoal as needed to maintain a 225 degrees F. temperature and more drained wood chips to maintain smoke level.

When the pork reaches an internal temperature of 190 degrees F., transfer the pork to a clean baking sheet. Tent with aluminum foil and let stand for about 30 minutes (the internal temperature will continue to rise to about 195 degrees F., the optimal temperature for pulled pork). When the pork is cool enough to handle, shred it into bite-sized pieces. (The pork may be cooked one day ahead, shredded, and covered with foil or food film. Refrigerate.)

Place the shredded pork into a large cast iron skillet over medium heat and cook until warmed (this will help remove any residual fat from the pulled pork). Add the Western South Carolina Sauce (see following recipe) and cook until warmed through.

Divide the pork into 4- to 6-ounce portions on the buns. Top with cole slaw and cover with bun tops.

Yield: About 16 servings

Heat Scale: Mild to Medium

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Western South Carolina Sauce

 

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, minced
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 cup cider vinegar
1 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons dry mustard
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons hot Hungarian paprika
1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
2 cups ketchup

 

Heat the oil in a 2 1/2-quart saucepan over medium heat; add the onion and garlic, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in all the remaining ingredients except the ketchup and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and add the ketchup. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Yield: About 4 cups

Heat Scale: Medium

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Apple-Smoked Chicken

 

For this entree, a combination of cooking methods is used. The chicken will be slow smoked with apple wood in a Grill Dome ceramic cooker but will also be held in "Buster's Drunk Chicken Roost" to keep it moist and flavorful. Instead of beer for the "beer can" chicken, apple juice is used. A BBQ Guru Competitor regulates the cooker's temperature.

1 (5- to 7-pound) Perdue Oven Stuffer Roaster Chicken

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 cups apple wood chips, soaked for 1 hour

3 cups apple juice or apple cider

1 (12-ounce) can beer

 

For the rub:

4 teaspoons granulated onion

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon cumin

2 teaspoons crushed rosemary

2 teaspoon dried oregano

 

Combine the rub ingredients in a small mixing bowl. (Makes about 1/4 cup of rub.)

Remove the neck and giblets from the chicken, reserve for sauce or stock. Remove the pop-up thermometer and discard. Remove and discard the fat just inside the body and neck cavities. Rinse the chicken, inside and out, under cold running water, drain, and dry with paper towels.(Remember, this is poultry, so be sure to thoroughly wash and sanitize your hands, utensils, and cutting boards after preparing the chicken.)

Rub the chicken with a light coating of olive oil. Sprinkle 1 1/2 tablespoons of the rub inside the body and neck cavities of the chicken. Rub the outside of the chicken with another 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of the rub.

Refrigerate, uncovered, at least 1 hour. Prepare the Grill Dome for 275 degrees F. indirect smoking. When the temperature has stabilized, add a handful or two of the drained apple wood chips to the coals. (Depending on your cooker, regulating the temperature may take 30 to 45 minutes so plan accordingly.)

If using a charcoal grill, place a large drip pan in the center and bank the coals on both sides. If using a gas grill, place the wood chips in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch and preheat the grill to high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to medium on one burner turning the other burner(s) off. Place the chicken over the burner that is off.

My Grill Dome ET is equipped with the BBQ Guru Competitor so controlling the temperature is simplified. Set the meat thermometer to 175 degrees F. and the pit thermometer to 275 degrees F. and the Guru will cycle the power draft on and off to maintain the desired temperature.

Open and drink the can of beer. Make two additional holes in the top of the can with a bottle opener and fill the can half full with apple juice or cider. Add any remaining rub to the can. Place the can in the chicken roost and place the chicken, body cavity down, onto the can.

Place the chicken in the center of the cooking grate, close the cover and cook for 1 hour. After 1 hour, spray the chicken with apple juice or cider and continue cooking another hour. Spray again and continue cooking until the chicken thigh has an internal temperature of 175 degrees F., about another 15 to 20 minutes depending on the size of the chicken. (The chicken will take about 25 to 30 minutes per pound to fully cook.)

Let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving the meat.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Heat Scale: Mild to Medium

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Smoked Beef Brisket with Beer Mop

Brisket, taken from the bovine's chest beneath the chuck, is one of the toughest pieces of beef on the market. It requires low and slow cooking for a long time to make it tender. With this recipe, a brisket flat is used instead of a full brisket (also called a packer's cut), which includes the point, the flat, and a thick layer of fat between the two muscles known as the deckle. A full brisket weighs about eight to 12 pounds. The flat is a leaner cut of meat. Some, however, argue that the point, with its higher fat content, makes for better barbecue. Expect about a 40% loss during cooking. This is not a quick dinner to be made after a day at work but it's a great meal to make on a weekend. Any remaining brisket may be vacuum sealed and frozen for future use. To reheat, place the sealed bag into boiling water for a few minutes. Avoid using a microwave as it will dry the meat.

1 (4- to 5-pound) choice beef brisket flat
Yellow mustard (plain ballpark variety)

8 to 10 pounds all-natural lump charcoal
1 cup BBQr's Delight Mesquite Pellets

For the dry rub:
2 tablespoons cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon granulated onion

1 teaspoon dried parsley

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

Mix the ingredients in small bowl to blend. (Makes 1/2 cup; reserve one tablespoon for mop.)

Place the brisket on work surface and trim the fat cap to an even 1/4-inch thickness. Score the fat cap into a diamond pattern. Brush the brisket with yellow mustard and sprinkle dry rub evenly all over brisket. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least two hours. (Can be prepared one day ahead and held in refrigerator.)

For the mop:

1/3 cup olive oil
1 small yellow onion, diced
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon dry rub (see above)

1 (12-ounce) can beer (not "lite" beer)
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, sauté the onions and garlic in olive oil until wilted. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer. Cook for five minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Don't apply a cold mop to warm meat. (Makes 2 1/2 cups)

About 45 minutes before cooking, fill a Grill Dome firebox 3/4 full with lump charcoal and ignite with pieces of a SuperCedar fire starter or electric igniter. Add three chunks of hickory wood and, using a foil pouch or cast iron smoker pot, 1/3 cup of the mesquite pellets. When the temperature of the Grill Dome stabilizes at 225 degrees F. (about 30 to 45 minutes after lighting), place the brisket on a cooking grate over a drip pan. Close the lid and smoke the brisket for three hours, adjusting the dampers to maintain a cooking temperature of 225 degrees F. (For my Grill Dome ET, this means having the bottom damper open about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch and the top damper open about 10%.) Add more pellets and wood chunks, as needed, to maintain desired smoke level.

Mop the brisket and continuing cooking, mopping every hour, until brisket reaches an internal temperature of 170 degrees F. (About five to 5 1/2 hours into the cook.) Double wrap the brisket in heavy duty aluminum foil, add about 1/2 cup of mop, and continue cooking until the brisket reaches an internal temperature of 190 degrees F., about another 60 to 90 minutes. (Total cooking time will vary depending on the heat of the smoker and the size of the brisket. At 225 degrees F., plan on about 1 1/2 to 2 hours per pound.)

When brisket is cooked, remove from smoker, unwrap, and let rest for 10 minutes. Thinly slice across the grain and plate. Serve with finishing sauce (see following recipe), grilled sweet corn on the cob and cole slaw.

Yield: Six 6-ounce servings

Heat Scale: Mild

Chef's Note: A 4.2-pound brisket flat, after cooking, yielded 2 1/2 pounds of sliced meat.

Brisket Finishing Sauce

Smoked Prime Rib with Horseradish Sauce

There's nothing quite like prime rib, especially slow-roasted and lightly smoked with apple wood and mesquite to make it even more tender. This recipe combines a dry rub for the meat and some vegetables for the drip pan that makes great au jus gravy. The roast should have a moderately thick layer of white fat over the meat. Trim off the fat cap to about 1/4-inch thickness, but don't trim all the fat. That's what gives marvelous flavor and moisture to the meat as it cooks. If desired, have your butcher cut the bones from the roast and re-attach them for easier carving. Buy a Prime-grade rib roast from the small end of the rib section; it will have less fat and more meat but don't buy a roast smaller than three ribs as they tend to cook unevenly. Most supermarket beef is graded Choice, which can be excellent, so you may have to special order a Prime-grade roast.

Au Jus

"Au jus" is simply beef stock stirred into a deglazed roasting pan and brought to a boil. It is not thick like typical gravy. As Au Jus is only as good as the beef stock it's made from, use homemade stock. If you must use canned stock, buy the best low-sodium stock available. Do not use artificially-flavored bouillon cubes.

Place the roasting pan on stove over a medium heat. Add red wine to deglaze the pan, stirring to dislodge and pieces of meat and vegetables. Add stock and stir well. Add Worcestershire sauce, and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook about 3 to 4 minutes.

Horseradish Cream Sauce

Combine the ingredients in a small mixing bowl and allow flavors to incorporate for one hour before serving. (This sauce may be prepared two days in advance and held refrigerated and covered.) 

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