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The Salsa Twins, Jim and John Thomas By Gwyneth Doland Photos by Josh Costanza Food Photos by Norman Johnson; Styled by Denice Skrepcinski In a rumpled plaid shirt and well-worn khakis, John Thomas Jr. carries an air of the eccentric inventor as he darts across the floor of his 8,000 square-foot salsa production facility with what I can only guess is some sort of flux capacitor. It could also be the guts of a cash register or a lawn mower for all I know, but the concerned look on Thomas's face tells me it's something important; the look certainly tells more than the "circuits blah blah wire blah blah" he mumbles as he rushes past. I'm here to interview Thomas, one of the identical twins who own Albuquerque's famous El Pinto restaurant, and I've already tasted one of everything on the menu out in the dining room. Jim Garcia, the director of operations, is eager for me to meet Thomas, but it's obvious he'd rather re-solder every wire on the flux capacitor's motherboard than have to talk to a reporter. Garcia, who by incredible coincidence is also one of a set of identical twins named Jim and John, is a people person, quick to flash a wide, white grin, and not too shy to brag about El Pinto's accomplishments. He's trying to coax the "Salsa Twins," as good friend Joe Malouf of the Palms Resort in Las Vegas nicknamed them, into being more media-friendly, but while he can lead his two horses to water, he sometimes finds them reluctant to drink. "They're more comfortable building a heat-exchanger than standing out front," Garcia says, detailing their involvement in coming up with faster ways to pasteurize salsa, taking core samples of frozen green chiles, and collecting soil and seed data that will help them procure the finest chiles from next year's crop. Jim and John Thomas Sure, the Thomases have other pursuits. They're both avid outdoorsmen and expert SCUBA divers; Jim is a licensed pilot, and John trains world-class hunting dogs. But they spend most of their time right here at the restaurant and salsa plant 100 yards from the house they grew up in. When John Thomas is finally persuaded to take a break and sit down for a few minutes, I ask about his family and his face immediately lights up. The twins' father, John Sr., was a mechanical engineer before their mother, Consuelo, convinced him to leave engineering behind to open El Pinto—which means "The Spot." (Hence the flux capacitor. The twins obviously take after both their parents.) In 1962, the couple opened a 65-seat restaurant in Albuquerque's North Valley, a quiet, bucolic area that was considered "the middle of nowhere" at the time. Consuelo cooked, using recipes handed down from her mother, Josephine Chavez Griggs. Josephine and her older sister ran a restaurant in Old Mesilla, in the far southern part of New Mexico near Las Cruces and across the border from El Paso. Their restaurant, La Posta, had been a post office and a stop on the Butterfield Overland Stage route of the 1850s. It was there that the Manhattan-born John Sr. tasted the red chile enchiladas that would convince him to give up engineering. Back in Albuquerque, the young couple threw all their energy into El Pinto. The twins, along with their four brothers and sisters, spent all of their free time helping out. "Whenever we got off the bus there was always something to do. Sundays we almost never had off because it was always the day the dishwasher came in sick," John Jr. remembers. After high school, the twins got sick of washing dishes and spent time working construction in Alaska in between semesters at the University of New Mexico. After college, as their parents decided to retire, the twins decided to take over the family business. "It took a little while to get used to being a host again," John says, remembering the isolation of Alaska. Together, they immediately set about remodeling the kitchen, expanding the restaurant, building patios and landscaping the grounds. "Rather than expanding to different locations, we thought we could control everything better if we kept it here," John explains. As a result, El Pinto is the largest restaurant in New Mexico, seating 450 inside and more than 1,000 including the outdoor patios. The kitchen is impossibly spacious, sprawling over 3,000 square feet. Views of El Pinto For Jim Garcia, the restaurant's incredible versatility is a huge advantage. The restaurant can simultaneously serve a lunch buffet with paper napkins and plastic cups, and host a special event on the patio with flamenco dancers and cigar-rollers flown in from Florida. Because of its versatility, privacy and exceptional customer service, El Pinto is home to many such special events. Television shows like "Hardball with Chris Matthews" and networks like ESPN and the Food Network have filmed segments here, as have dozens of films. President Bush is also a fan, and El Pinto has fed him here, on Air Force One and at the White House. The Thomases hold it as a particular point of pride that the President, a Texan, chose New Mexico's El Pinto to cook at the White House on Cinco de Mayo. But perhaps more boast-worthy is the fact that El Pinto is the most popular salsa sold in New Mexico--a pretty tough market. With the restaurant humming along, the brothers decided to start bottling their popular salsa and green chile sauce in 2000. They started out making small batches in the restaurant's kitchen at night. But it soon proved so popular that the salsa operation outgrew even El Pinto's enormous kitchen. The Thomases toured all of New Mexico's co-packers, but came away unimpressed. The engineer's sons thought they could do better. With mentoring from New Mexico State University and some guidance from the nearby General Mills plant, the twins created a state of the art production facility just behind the restaurant. They make 2,000 cases a day and ship them all over the world. The products, which have won many awards, are sold in Albertson's, Associated Food Stores, H-E-B, Kroger, Ralph's, Unified Grocers, Wild Oats and even Wal-Mart. Because chiles are so important to the restaurant and to their salsa business—they use more than 120 tons of chiles per year—the brothers are involved in every aspect of the chile business. They work closely with contracted growers, collecting data on seeds, soils and fertilizer to track which combinations produce the best fiery fruits. The workers who pick the chiles are the same ones who roast and peel them by hand, ensuring that no flavor is lost. On the production line, the brothers taste one jar from every batch, and a six-person panel tastes the product daily. Although they did have to adjust their fresh salsa recipe for canning, at the restaurant, Grandmother Josephine's recipes are still used every day. (John Thomas Sr., who still lives next door, is known to wander over for spot checks of the chile.) From the thick, just-fried tortilla chips to the chunky guacamole, hearty tamales and cheese- and chile-slathered enchiladas, the flavor of old New Mexico is present in every bite. On most days, the restaurant is busy, but especially in summer, when weddings and other functions push it toward full capacity. But whether it's a young couple out on a date or a fiesta for 500, El Pinto puts customer service first. On the day I visited, a small group celebrating a birthday was showered with jars of salsa to take home. "Every chance we have to make a new friend, we jump on it," Garcia says. Once, Garcia asked the brothers to personally deliver an order of salsa to a woman who had complained about a previous delivery. "She's now an evangelist for El Pinto," he reports proudly.  Today, nearly 50 years after it was founded in the "middle of nowhere," El Pinto's 12 wooded acres have retained their sleepy rural character even though the city has encroached northward and the restaurant is just across I-25 from the gleaming Sandia Resort and Casino (where the National Fiery Foods and Barbecue Show is being held). John and Jim Thomas could probably afford to retire and let employees run the restaurant and the salsa business, but what else would they do?"It's a passion for us," John says. "We have our ups and downs, but it's just great to be in the business, to see the growth that we're seeing and to know that people really enjoy our product." Although he seems reserved at first, John is ebullient on the subject of the business he has been immersed in his whole life. "Being in the restaurant business you have to be sincere," he says, "When a customer compliments you, you really have to appreciate that." And when that customer is the President? That's a sweet compliment indeed. Recipes Seven Layer Dip This is the gourmet dip that turns ordinary party fare into a fiesta! 2 cups cooked, refried or mashed beans 1/2 pound cooked ground beef or shredded beef 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese 1 (16-ounce) jar El Pinto green chile sauce 1 cup guacamole 3/4 cup sour cream 1 cup chopped tomatoes 1 pound tortilla chips
Into a shallow serving dish, spread a layer of beans, followed by layers of ground beef, cheese, green chile sauce, guacamole, sour cream and tomatoes. Refrigerate the dip for at least 30 minutes. Serve with chips.
Yield: 12 servings Heat Scale: Mild Breakfast Burritos This hearty breakfast is also quick and easy.
1/2 pound bacon or cubed pork
5 whole eggs 1 (16-ounce) jar El Pinto salsa or green chile sauce 1/2 pound cooked, diced potatoes 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese 5 (10-inch) flour tortillas, warmed Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large cast iron skillet, fry the bacon or cubed pork. Allow the cooked meat to cool on a paper towel-lined plate, then crumble the bacon, if that's what you're using. Drain all but 1 tablespoon of the drippings.
Add the eggs to the skillet and scramble. Add crumbled bacon or cubed pork. Add half of the salsa or green chile sauce. Gently fold in the potatoes and cheese, then remove the pan from the heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon 1 1/2 cups of the egg mixture down the center of the tortilla, then fold the ends in and roll it up. Serve with the rest of the salsa or green chile sauce. Yield: 5 burritos Heat Scale: Mild Green Chile Enchiladas These tasty flat or rolled treats, usually made with corn tortillas, are easy to make and always hit the spot!
12 (6-inch) corn tortillas 1/2 pounds cooked meat (chicken, pork or beef) chopped, shredded or ground 1 (16-)ounce jar El Pinto green chile sauce 2 cups shredded cheddar cheese 1/2 cup sour cream (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Lightly fry the corn tortillas in hot oil, then drain them on a paper towel-lined plate. Warm the green chile sauce in a small saucepan. Put one tortilla on an ovenproof dinner plate, add some warm green chile sauce, cooked meat and cheddar cheese. Repeat twice, topping with extra cheese. Place the plate in a preheated oven or broiler until the cheese is melted, approximately 5 minutes. Garnish with sour cream and serve. Yield: 4 servings Heat Scale: Medium Salmon Veracruz This traditional Mexican dish is heart-healthy and full of Omega-3 oils.
4 (6-ounce) salmon filets 1 (16-ounce) jar El Pinto salsa 1 tablespoon capers 1/4 cup sliced green olives with pimento 1 teaspoon Mexican oregano leaves, chopped 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon cooking oil
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.
Place the salmon filets on a greased baking pan and lightly salt and pepper each filet. In a small mixing bowl, combine the salsa, olives, capers and oregano. Ladle 1/3 cup of mixture on top of each salmon filet and bake for approximately 10-12 minutes. Remove the fish from the oven and ladle the remaining sauce on top of each filet. Yield: 4 servings Heat Scale: Medium
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