by Dave DeWitt
Food Photos by Sergio Salvador; Styling by Emily DeWitt-Cisneros

Spring can be a frustrating time of the year for chileheads. The garden has not yet produced those chiles and tomatoes you crave for your summer cooking, and the other vegetables are not ripe either. But out there in farming and ranching country, dedicated foodies have grown the spring foods you need to celebrate the season. And we can find the heat sources to spice them up. Here’s my take on what you should be cooking for a spicy spring.

Greens, Ferns and Serranos a Spicy Salad Make

Nowadays, greens are available all year long, but for the home gardener, spring is the best time for spring greens before they are burned up by the summer sun. The most common greens are probably various kinds of lettuce and spinach, but there are many other varieties of greens, some with weird names. Chicory, Dutch savoy, bok choi, watercress, sorrel, mustard greens, turnip greens, endive, escarole, radicchio, Swiss chard, golden orach, kale, dandelion, purslane, and amaranth are a few of the lesser known, but tasty greens. Interestingly, chile pepper leaves are also edible and can be used as greens.

Available from April to July in the eastern United States, fiddlehead ferns are tightly coiled, bright green and taste like a cross between asparagus and green beans. They are a good source of vitamins A and C, and complement the slightly bitter flavor of some greens.

Greens and Ferns with Santa Fe Serrano Dressing

You should make small batches of the dressing because the avocado will discolor slightly on the second day; however, it is so good and so versatile, that it probably won't last that long anyway. Using Champagne vinegar adds zest without the harshness associated with other types of vinegars. You can also serve the dressing over cooked chilled vegetables, such as freshly cooked asparagus or artichokes.

• 1 ripe avocado, peeled, seed removed, and cut into quarters

• 2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

• 1/4 cup water

• 1/2 cup unflavored low-fat yogurt or sour cream

• 2 tablespoons cilantro

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 1 clove garlic

• 1 fresh serrano chile, seeds and stem removed

• 6 bunches of different greens, mixed together in a bowl

• 18 fiddlehead ferns

Place all of the ingredients (except the greens and ferns) in a blender or food processor and blend until thoroughly mixed. If the dressing seems too thick, add more water or yogurt. Place the mixed greens in 6 bowls and add 3 fiddlehead ferns to each bowl.. Add the dressing to taste.

Yield: 6 servings

Heat Scale: Mild

Ramping It Up a Notch

Ramps are wild onions with a strong garlic aroma and flavor that are very popular in Appalachia, where festivals are devoted to them. But many people think that they are much too strong and there is even an aphorism that goes: “Ramps are not for ladies or those who court them.” Ramps are not cultivated but are collected in the wild. Sometimes they can be found at farmers’ markets from southern Canada to the Carolinas beginning in April. They were a favorite of forager Euell Gibbons, author of Stalking the Wild Asparagus who loved them to pickle them and use them in soups such as this one.

Creamy and Spicy Ramp and New Potato Soup

If you can’t find ramps, substitute scallions with a few cloves of garlic. Of course, you can adjust the heat level by increasing or reducing the amount of chile powder added to the soup. Serve with crusty French bread.

• 1/2 stick unsalted butter

• 1 pound fresh ramps, cleaned and cut into 2" pieces

• Salt to tasteFreshly-ground black pepper, to taste

• 1 tablespoon New Mexican red chile powder

• 1 bay leaf

• 3 tablespoons minced garlic

• 10 cups chicken stock2 1/2 pounds new potatoes, quartered

• 1/4 cup heavy cream

Melt the butter in a 6-quart stock pot over medium-high heat. Add the ramps and stir. Season with salt, black pepper, and chile powder. Saute until the ramps are wilted and soft, about 6 minutes. Add the bay leaf and garlic, stirring for 2 minutes. Add the stock and potatoes and bring the mixture to a boil.Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are very soft and the mixture is thick and creamy, about 1 hour. Remove the soup from the heat. Discard the bay leaf. Slowly add the cream. Stir to blend. It can be served as is, or blended in a blender or food processor.

Yield: 10 servings

Heat Scale: Medium