This South American paste can be used as a substitute whenever fresh chiles are called for. It will keep for two weeks or more in the refrigerator; for longer storage, increase the vinegar and reduce the amount of olive oil. For a red paste, substitute 15 dried New Mexican red chiles, soaked in water. For a green paste, substitute 10 New Mexican green chiles, roasted, peeled, and chopped. For a much hotter paste, add 5 habanero chiles. All chiles should have the seeds and stems removed.

A parrilla is a simple grill in Argentina, but the wonders it can create! As barbecue expert Steven Raichlen noted, “Argentina can be a forbidding place for a vegetarian.” Chimichurri is the sauce most commonly served with beef straight from the parrilla, and there are dozens—if not hundreds—of variations of it, and a debate about whether it should contain chiles. You know which side we favor, and our version of chimichurri contains green ají chiles. Since cattle are so large in Argentina, why not use a huge steak? Serve with grilled sweet potato and poblano chile kabobs, and black beans and rice.

This is part of a traditional Brazilian Churrasco, or mixed meat barbecue. Many habanero relatives grow in the Amazon Basin, where the species was domesticated.

Molho Campanha is the Brazilian version of the Mexican pico de gallo salsa. It’s best to prepare it fresh, as it doesn’t keep well.

There is a minor debate about whether or not this Argentinian sauce 
should contain chile peppers. As usual, there is no real answer because 
cooks tend to add them or not, according to taste. This sauce is served 
with broiled, roasted, or grilled meat and poultry.

I grow a lot of Peruvian ají chiles in my garden every year, and I 
always put aside a large bag of them to take to Miguel, our computer 
wizard friend from Peru. On my second or third trip to Miguel's (it was 
a bumper harvest of chiles), he was having a late lunch with this ají 
sauce over his rice.

This Brazilian sauce is traditionally served over black-eyed pea 
fritters (acaraj, called accra in the West Indies), but can also be 
spread over other bland foods such as potatoes. It has an intense shrimp 
flavor and high heat. It is traditionally made with dende, palm oil, but 
I have substituted one with less saturated fat. Variation: Add 1 
teaspoon minced cilantro and 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger to the paste.