Meal/Course - Sauce/Marinade/Rub
Few people have ever heard of the Mascarenes, and these islands are more
known by their individual names: Réunion, Mauritius, and Ródrigues. They
are a departement of France and lie hundred of miles east of Madagascar,
hundreds of miles away from each other, and although they vary greatly
in geography, culture, and religion, they have one great thing in
common: a love of chile peppers. On all three islands, chiles of every
size and heat level are lovingly grown and added to a cuisines that can
generically be called Creole. Rebecca Chastenet de Gry, one of my
writers, collected this recipe for me on Réunion Island. She wrote:
"Alter the heat in this extremely hot salsa by changing the chiles used.
Traditionally the smaller piquin or bird's eye chiles are the types
preferred, but milder ones, such as red serranos, can be used." Serve
it--easy does it--over clams, other shellfish, or grilled fish fillets.
The famous food writer M. F. K. Fisher described this sauce as follows:
“A peppery concoction suited to the taste of bouillabaisse, served
separately from the soup to be ladled in at the discretion of the
From the Netherlands Antilles' island of Saba comes this simple,
steeped hot sauce that graces seafood dishes or simple rice. Malt
vinegar, made from malted barley, is the secret taste ingredient.
Because of the vinegar, this sauce can be kept for a month or so in the
This recipe is from Giuliano Bugialli as profiled by Nancy Gerlach, who
met him in Rome. She commented: “This in an all-purpose sauce that can
be used on a variety of pastas. To really 'enrage' the sauce, replace
the crushed New Mexican chile with chiltepíns or piquin chiles.”
From the Sabine town of Amatrice comes this simple but great pasta
sauce. Traditionally, it is served over bucatini, a spaghetti-like pasta
that has a hole in it, like a straw. It is then sprinkled with grated
pecorino romano cheese.
This diabolically hot sauce is also called pasta de chiltepín (chiltepín
paste). It is used in soups and stews and to fire up machaca, eggs,
tacos, tostadas, and beans. This is the exact recipe prepared in the
home of my friend, Josefina Durán, in Cumpas, Sonora. Note: This recipe
requires advance preparation.
This is the sauce that commonly is bottled in liquor bottles and sold in
the mercados and at roadside stands in central and northern Mexico. It
is sprinkled over nearly any snack food, from tacos to tostadas.
Here is a standard Spanish hot sauce would probably be prepared with the
small, hot guindilla (“little cherry”) chiles. Serve this tasty sauce
over steamed vegetables, roasted meats, or fish prepared by any method.
There are many variations on this Creole sauce from Argentina, but this
is my favorite. It is served with grilled, roasted, or barbecued meats,
especially matambre. Variation: Add 1 bell pepper and 1 jalapeño, both
seeded and minced.
This is a basic but classic Latin American salsa recipe collected in
Ecuador. Although this recipe calls for the use of an electric blender,
one can follow the traditional method of using a mortar and pestle.
Ecuadorians are very fond of putting beans in their salsa. The most
popular beans are the lupini, which are large white beans about the size
of lima beans. Just add the cooked beans directly to the salsa. Use this
salsa as a dip for chips or as a topping for grilled meats.